Rome Report

We are just back from Spring Break 2013- Rome+Vatican City+Venice.

I immediately gelled with Rome—palm trees, sunshine,  great food and wine.  Yeah. 

Through a course of events too tricky to explain we ended up with a free apartment in Rome with a driver!  So, Adriano picked us up (in a car that runs on natural gas)  from the airport and drove us through Rome to our apartment near Tiburtina station.  There we were met by our hosts who own the apartment but live an hour’s drive away.  They had cooked a traditional Italian meal to welcome us.  Before I tell all about the meal, I have to set the scene a little better.  Our host is actually “the most interesting man in the world.”  He travelled around the world, beginning in the 60’s, documenting and studying drama, dance, and ritual in places such as Bali, India, Brazil etc….. The apartment was full of books and paraphernalia from these trips.   Essentially, I could spend the rest of my life reading his books, hearing his stories, looking at his artifacts and never get bored.   He still talks about places and events as “magical”.   He has all velvet furniture and inventive display cases. 

So, the meal.  Well, firstly, we arrived a bit late from the airport and I had in my mind that these guys have an hour’s drive back to the hills after they eat with us, but there was no rushing this meal.  Also, forgot to mention that I don’t eat meat to these guys, so I did.  Firstly, 3 kinds of prosciutto and mozzarella di buffalo with crusty breads.  Then a salmon pasta.  Then artichoke salad, fennel and orange salad, and pistachio meat balls.  Then, marinated strawberries for dessert.  (Yes I even ate those and liked them!).  And wine.  Plenty of wine.  After 3 hours of eating and explaining all of the “necessaries”  for the apartment, our hosts departed and we crashed.  

And then- the morning light in Rome!   I got up early and went to the meat guy down the street for bacon and eggs for the fam.  Then, I walked by the veggie market and got veggies, including fresh asparagus (!).  Then I came back to the apartment, made coffee (best coffee all year), and sat on the balcony watching Rome go by.  The kids had leftover strawberries and cookies for breakfast.

I had planned Rome out just so, but was slightly thwarted by the transit strike on our first day and the awesome generosity of our hosts letting us borrow Adriano.  So, it went like this instead and we ended up seeing both more and less of Rome than I had imagined. 

Adriano picked us up and we went to the Coliseum just to see the outside and get tickets for the following day.  Rome!  Then it took us ages and ages to get to the Vatican, barely making our appointment time to go through the museums.  Adriano was so very patient.  There was a strike on the public transit that day so the roads were crazy.  But what a drive!  The pink trees were in bloom.  The sun was shining.   I had heard that museums were kind of miserable and rushed but worth it, however we found them to be very relaxing.  Frequently we’d find ourselves in a little outdoor spot and we never felt like we couldn’t see what we wanted to see.  I guess I mean, it was no Louvre.  I wish we had had a few days just to do the museums, though, because we did rush ourselves through the more modern art to get to the Sistine, and no one wanted to hang out with the maps like I did.

After our loooong drive back to the apartment we only had the energy for a meal of leftovers (thanks hosts!) and bread.  And a BATH!!!  I hadn’t had a bath all year!!!  It was great.  I had a bath every night in Rome.  That’s a thing, right?  Roman Baths?  Well, I had my own. 

Rome Day 2 began with a proper exploration of the Coliseum, Palatine Hill, and Forum.  I especially enjoyed the Palatine with its orange trees and lots of greenery—and all those ancient ruins too.   After lunch we decided to head back to the Vatican because we hadn't had enough time to tour St. Peter’s.  Our hosts had tried to have Adriano take us out of the city for the afternoon because Burlesconi had organized a bunch of protests.  We failed to heed his advice and ended up in the most chaotic and turbulent subway experience of our lives.  I think we waited for three trains before we got on and all the while a mob with signs were happily shouting and planning their next sites of protest.  It was nuts, but kind of fun too.  Very Italian. 

The walk from the subway to St. Peter’s square was just a giant throng of people in all directions, but we enjoyed a glimpse of the jester-like Swiss Guard.  It was the Saturday before Palm Sunday.  Workers were frantically arranging chairs and planting things in pots.  The small pink trees were doing their thing.   We took some time to take in the square and then walked to the nearest gelato stop.  The gelato and cappuccino were pretty bad, but we sat in the sun and met up with some students.  It was Romey.

We headed home and Gabe and I peeled off to grocery shop.  We picked up some fresh ravioli and sauce and then cooked up the asparagus for dinner.  We played some cards and then walked around our little neighborhood.  Our own little piazza, Piazza Bologna, was busy with Romans having a night out.   I really liked being out of the extra touristy Rome and just hanging out with the folk.

The following morning the folk were on parade for Palm Sunday with loud speaker and palm fronds as we made our way to the subway stop at our piazza.   After watching a bit of the procession we headed to the Boghese gardens where we rented a four-person bike and biked around the gardens for an hour.  There were strolling players, fountains, orange trees, balloon vendors, a carousel.  It was a lot of fun. 

Then the Borghese Gallery full of Bernini sculptures etc etc etc….  It was nice, but honestly not that amazing after the many many similar works in Vienna.  Also the workers there were so strict.  Maya couldn’t draw for someone moving her chair out from under her. 

We finished off our last afternoon in Rome with the Trevi fountain and the Spanish steps—neither would I do again.  And then home to sit in our little piazza with pizza take out and watch the Sunday marketers.  I may have purchased some truffle spread-- but no giant meatnesses.  Then a long last sit on the balcony before calling it a night. 

In the morning we took a walk to Villa Torlonia which was, among many things, Mussolini's state residence.  We then readied ourselves, Adriano picked us up and off to the Termini station we went….and then to Venice.

Phew!

In short, Rome needs a lot more time, but after a few days of Rome’s pace, it is nice to get out of town.